I knew that the spontaneous decision to come to Bangkok with my cousin Laurie Dreamer had been a good one by the time we landed. In my experience, bowing to passengers and handing out orchids is just not standard on transatlantic flights in economy class [note: check whether Thai Airways flies to Charlotte]. We arrived very early in the morning and were at the flat by seven, early enought to see the sun rise over the Chao Phraya river from the balcony, on the 27th floor. The view is astonishing, and you would have a pretty good time just sitting on the Dreamer lounge chairs, drinking gin and watching the boats go by.
Laurie was concerned that the flat would be in a state, but it was fine, just really dusty. Besides it didn't matter because she explained that in Thailand all you have to do is close your eyes and click your heels, and before too long beautiful women appear to mop the floors, virtually for free. I love this country! 
So instead of cleaning, we took naps until 10.30 and then ventured out, walking along the road and through the charming local park with its quaint yard art and stray dogs that made me feel like I was back home in Tennessee. All the local taxi drivers hang out there playing volleyball and lifting weights, adding to its informal and relaxed ambience. As you near the river the path is lined with people cooking for weary commuters at the end of the day. Mmmm... fried bugs for dinner, an excellent low carb alternative to chicken! Laurie says that she doesn't buy street food because she thinks it is dirty but that if Paul goes out and brings it home, she is 
okay about it because it seems cleaner that way. This technique has the added advantage that Paul has to go out to get dinner while she sits on that balcony. Way to go, Laurie!
The ferry goes straight to the main tourist dock and Skytrain connection at Taksin Bridge.
We changed boats and went to the terrace of the historic Oriental Hotel for a lunch of crab and papaya remoulade salad and fresh springrolls on the terrace, where we met her friend, the manager, Khun Ice, who is the Guinness Book of World Records holder for Campest Hospitality Industry Worker. He was simply delighted to see Laurie again but couldn't stay because he had to go rearrange the soft furnishings in the lobby (again, sigh). 
We then took the Skytrain to the Central World department store to find adaptor plugs for my laptop and hairdryer and binoculars for the balcony, my flat-warming present. Starbucks was on the top floor of the store, so we had to have black tea latte and cappuccino. Then we stopped off for grocery supplies at the Tops supermarket beneath Robinson’s department store, where I bought weird fruit including rose apples, that are delicious. The fruit is so strange in Thailand that Laurie has set aside almost an entire shelf in the family room for fruit identification books.
On the walk back to the flat from the ferry we stopped at All Season Nails Hand and Foot Spa, which is run by Nicole, Laurie’s best friend in 
Nicole is back in Bangkok now, trying to establish an oasis in the heart of Thonburi, which isn’t much of a challenge to be honest, although attracting enough customers to keep All Season Nails going might be a taller order. Another problem is that none of the women working for Nicole seem to be very experienced. But on the basis that you always want to help out your friends, Laurie and I both had one hour foot massages there, after which I had trouble walking back to the flat. But we really love Nicole anyway! And she has opened a café which has great lychee tea and homemade cookies! Laurie and I are convinced that Heidi is going to put this place on the map when she is next in Bangkok. But meanwhile, do drop by when you are in town, while it is still possible to get a same-day appointment (Th.Charoen Nakorn at Soi 21, tel.0-2437-4693).
We hobbled back to the flat and got the internet working, and checked out the neighbours with binoculars, while the two beautiful maids dusted and cleaned for a couple of hours, and then went to S&P for dinner, which is like Shoney's or Denny's except that every dish has chile instead of hydrogenated vegetable oil as the main ingredient. So, filled up with green chicken curry, rice, and really hot green papaya salad, we strolled over to the Marriott Resort and Spa Hotel, where Laurie pretends to be a guest and asks the concierge questions when she can't figure out what is going on. It has a beautiful, lush pool area and would be a great place to come to stay, unless you are a snob and want to stay at the Oriental instead.
