Day Six: 19 February

We set out early this morning, at 9am, and went to a really interesting lecture on Cambodian textiles at the Siam Society. The speaker was Gillian Green, an Australian scholar who has written extensively on the subject, which is a respectable academic cover for a life spent travelling around southeast Asia. Why didn’t I think of that?

We explored the small Lana house museum attached to the Society, and then set out to find the Bangkok Doll Factory, which isn't a very easy place to find. Start out by walking north up Th. Ratchaprarop past the Baiyoke Tower, over the railway tracks under Skytrain extension. Once under the overpass at the intersection with Th. Sri Ayutthaya, cross over to the northeastern side and walk a few yards down Th. Sri Ayutthaya and turn left on Soi Ratchataphan. Follow the soi around to the left and bear left when it splits and then look for ramshackle sign to turn right down a branch of the soi with a lot of little sweatshops where all your clothes at Target and/or Primark are made by young children. But don't worry because they looked really happy! Laurie says this isn’t for the faint-hearted and she will sent her future guests by taxi.

Anyway, the doll factory is great. There is a ‘museum’ of dolls from around the world and a shop/showroom with stock ranging from handpuppets to angels for your Christmas tree. Bangkok Dolls also produces full blown tableaus of Khon dancers performing the Thai version of the Ramayana, which would be a striking addition to any living room. Laurie promised me that she is going to think about it. We were able to visit the room in the back where the dolls are made, too.

It was just a short taxi ride to the Suan Pakkad Palace, the collection of Thai houses that was formerly the residence of Prince Chumbhot and his lovely wife. Tours are guided and it is worth a visit specifically to see the laquer library that was moved there in 1958 from Ayutthaya. It is just like the one at Wat Rakhang, so go here if you can't get in to see that one – and they let you spend as long as you like examining the black and gold laquer murals inside.

We went by taxi to Erawan Tea Room again, because we wanted to sample their high tea. Fantastic deal – for 200 baht per person, you get an assortment of little savoury and sweet dishes (including a hot melting coconut ‘egg’ pastry that is one of the best things I have ever tasted) with tea or coffee, and they have the Herald Tribune and the Wall Street Journal.

This was so nice that we decided to round it off with a foot massage at Ruen Nuad Massage Studio, off of Soi Convent. This is one of Nicholas’s recommendations again, and it was superb. Thank you, Nicholas! I would go here all the time if I lived in Bangkok! Very peaceful veranda space with lemongrass tea and wind chimes.Laurie and I sat side by side in comfortable armchairs while our feet were pummelled into blissful submission.

From the sublime back into the ridiculous, we walked up to the night bazarr in Lumphini Park. This is due to close soon, but for the time being is an alternative to Chatuchak. We had a drink and went to the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre for the very enjoyable evening performace. The puppets were developed in the early twentieth century, based on traditional Thai puppet forms and the stories are based on the Khon masked drama dances. Each puppet is worked by three Khon dancers dressed in black, and the performance takes about an hour, after standing up to the national anthem and to pay respects to the late Princess, the King's sister, for whom we are all still in mourning. Afterwards we escaped the dodgy taxis in the night bazarr and got home by subway, Skytrain and taxi.